Buen Retiro Park Walking Tour (Self Guided), Madrid

Standing as one of Madrid’s most iconic landmarks, Alcalá is a lasting symbol of King Carlos III’s vision for urban renewal in the city’s eastern districts. Designed by renowned architect Francesco Sabatini, it replaced an earlier Baroque gateway originally constructed by Felipe III to mark his wife’s grand entry into Madrid.

Construction on this colossal Neo-Classical city gate began in 1769 and spanned nine years. At the time, it was Europe’s largest such structure, predating other renowned triumphal arches like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate. Built from granite, it features an imposing pediment and five arches—three central and two rectangular outer ones—adorned with classical statues and finely detailed reliefs. The name “Alcalá” traces its roots to the Arabic term “al-qalat,” meaning castle or fortification, reflecting the original route’s connection to the fortified town of Alcalá de Henares.

Once marking Madrid’s eastern boundary, the gateway now stands within Independence Square, surrounded by well-tended gardens. Its grandeur is particularly striking at night, when illuminated by soft, golden lighting. Situated near Retiro Park and the upscale Salamanca district, Alcalá is perfectly positioned for visitors to experience its beauty as part of a larger exploration of Madrid’s attractions. Stroll through the nearby park, enjoy a coffee at one of the surrounding terraces, or simply marvel at the architectural elegance of this historic landmark.

In Retiro Park, you’ll wander through pathways and circular clearings named after Latin American locales—like little echoes of another continent scattered across Madrid. At the Nicaragua roundabout, you’ll find the captivating Fountain of the Turtles, commissioned by Ferdinand VII to celebrate the first birthday of Princess Isabella, who would grow up to become Queen Isabella II. Relocated here in 1879, the fountain now lounges beside the park’s lake and bandstand, as if it’s always belonged.

The sculpture tells a fairytale in bronze and stone. Three delicate fairies offer gifts to the princess, a symbolic gesture of blessings for her reign. Dolphins, each carrying a child, embody intelligence, wisdom, and prudence, while the aquatic motifs serve as timeless emblems of life’s fertility. And then there are the Galápagos tortoises, signifiers of longevity, resting at the base. They seem as if they’ve been quietly waiting through the ages, inviting you to pause and marvel at their presence.

So as you stroll past, let the moment linger. Look closer. You’re not just passing a fountain; you’re stepping into a royal dreamscape that continues to ripple through time.

From the park’s northern gate, a tree-lined path guides you toward Retiro’s central lake, known as Pleasure Lake. This mirror-like pool is anything but sleepy; it’s the heart of the park’s liveliness, where visitors drift across the water in rented rowing boats. Whether spring is bursting with color or autumn’s gold is falling all around, drifting across the glassy surface is a timeless ritual. Boats are available daily from 10am to 8pm—or until sunset, whichever mood strikes the sky first. Each 45-minute escape comes with a small fee.

One side of the lake is crowned by a dramatic semicircular colonnade of stone—solemn, statuesque, and brimming with gravitas. At its center stands a bronze Alfonso XII on horseback, high atop a column, caught mid-gaze like a monarch surveying his tranquil domain. The monument was unveiled by his son, Alfonso XIII, during a ceremony of royal pomp. And here's where things get curious: that same Alfonso XIII narrowly escaped a deadly bombing on his wedding day to Queen Victoria’s granddaughter. Legend has it, a cryptic message carved into a tree right here in Retiro may have saved his life.

Swing around to the opposite bank and the atmosphere shifts. Portrait artists dip into passing faces, capturing fleeting likenesses, while fortune-tellers unfurl mysteries under the trees, offering glimpses into futures just vague enough to feel true.

Though it bears the official title of the Argentina Promenade, most visitors know this stretch of Retiro Park as the Walkway of the Statues. Located between the Gate of Spain and the Large Pond, it is lined with 14 sculpted monarchs—just a fraction of the 114 originally envisioned in 1743 by Benedictine friar Martín Sarmiento. These finely carved figures were meant for the cornice of the Royal Palace… but fate, as usual, had other ideas.

According to legend, Queen Isabel de Farnesio—second wife of King Felipe V—was plagued by unsettling dreams in which the statues toppled from the palace. Spooked, she ordered their relocation, and the stone monarchs were scattered across Madrid—landing in various places. During the reign of Carlos III, the remaining sculptures were exiled to the palace basement, their baroque flair deemed unfashionable in a city preocuppied with modernizing its image.

Around a century later, during the reign of Isabel II in 1842, the statues were dusted off, restored, and redistributed across Madrid, including Retiro Park. A few years later, 13 more royal statues were added to this walkway, representing rulers from medieval times to the modern era. But with 13 being an unlucky—and asymmetrical—number, something had to give. During a park redesign in 1989, an empty pedestal was installed to restore balance, possibly reserved for Alfonso VII. Yet, it remained unclaimed for decades. Then, in 2021, a new figure finally took her place: Queen Juana I of Castile. Known as “Juana the Mad,” her tragic story—caught between love, power, and fragile mental health—has inspired numerous books, plays, and paintings, casting her as one of Spain’s most misunderstood monarchs.

Venture west through the green labyrinth of Retiro, and you’ll arrive at the Parterre—a space that draws admirers of symmetry, serenity, and a bit of old-world flair. With its manicured, geometric layout, this part of the park feels like something lifted straight from the gardens of a European palace—particularly one with a French touch. Strolling the paths or pausing on a shaded bench, you’re wrapped in calm. And if you’ve brought a camera, good—you’ll need it!

The Parterre is home to Madrid’s oldest trees, including a true patriarch: the Montezuma cypress. Towering at 25 meters with a six-meter girth, its silhouette resembles a green chandelier. Native to Mexico, the Aztecs called it “watery old man”—a nod to its love of riversides and its impressively long life. This particular watery giant has stood here since 1632, making it the oldest tree in Madrid.

Legend has it that Captain General Hernán Cortés brought it here—or at least a fragment of its lineage. Perhaps a cutting, perhaps a seed tucked into a sleeve. A stolen bit of sorrow. You see, on the so-called “Sad Night” of July 1st, 1520, as Spanish troops were ambushed and decimated by the Aztecs while retreating from what we now call Mexico City, Cortés is said to have wept beneath a Montezuma cypress. And from that grief, from that imperial bruise, a fragment of the tree may have made the journey across the ocean, eventually rooting itself in this quiet garden. A leafy monument to a night of tears.

This impressive fountain is often called the Fountain of the Triton due to the mythological duo of triton and nymph decorating its base. It was originally part of an grand plan to beautify the Salón del Prado, Madrid’s very first tree-lined promenade, during the reign of Carlos III. However, as the city modernized and traffic grew too heavy, the fountain was given a new home. In 1877, nearly a century after its creation, it was moved to the peaceful southwest corner of Retiro Park.

Crafted from granite and white stone, the fountain showcases signature baroque flair—swirling marine deities, leafy flourishes, and of course, the ever-present movement of water, symbolizing the essence of life. At the very top, you’ll notice something unusual: an artichoke. It’s not just there for decoration. This plant was valued for both its healing properties and its role in cooking, and over the centuries, it has also come to represent fertility.

At the base of the fountain, circling around its wide stone bowl, stand the triton and the nereid, lifting the city’s coat of arms—myth and meaning sculpted into stone, flowing with echoes of Madrid’s past.

This fountain is arguably one of the most captivating in all of Retiro Park, and certainly the most unexpected. Created in the late 19th century, it’s believed to be one of only three sculptures in the world depicting Lucifer. Inspired by verses from John Milton’s “Paradise Lost”, the statue captures a dramatic moment of transformation: the angel’s fall from grace.

Sculptor Ricardo Bellver first modeled it in plaster while studying in Rome on a scholarship. Word of the piece eventually reached Spain’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, and soon after, King Alfonso XII funded its casting in bronze. The statue made its public debut at the 1878 Universal Exhibition in Paris, where it drew widespread praise. Afterward, the Spanish Crown donated it to the city of Madrid—on the condition that it be given a suitably grand pedestal. And so it was. The fountain was officially unveiled in Retiro Park in 1885, just months after the king’s passing.

The sculpture shows a nude, tormented figure—half angel, half fallen soul—caught mid-descent. He leans against a broken tree trunk, one leg ensnared by a twisting serpent. His face turns upward in a fierce expression that’s difficult to pin down—part agony, part defiance, maybe even a flicker of rage.

The entire monument sits atop an octagonal pedestal, rising from the center of a circular pond. Around its base, eight monstrous heads and other mythic creatures pour water into the basin below. Framed by lush gardens, the fountain feels like something out of a dream—or perhaps, a fevered vision. Either way, it’s unforgettable.

If you’re on the lookout for a bit of blooming beauty in Madrid, don’t miss La Rosaleda—a peaceful rose garden tucked away inside Retiro Park. Come spring, especially in May and June, the garden comes alive with the scent of over 4,000 rose bushes, all arranged in carefully designed flowerbeds. It’s a colorful burst of calm right in the heart of the city.

La Rosaleda was laid out back in 1915 by Madrid’s Chief Gardener, who took inspiration from elegant European rose gardens—especially those in Paris. Before it became a sea of petals, the site held a greenhouse gifted by the Marquis of Salamanca, and even earlier, there was a small pond here where locals used to skate when it froze over in winter.

The number of roses changes with the seasons, but the space is always beautifully kept. The rose bushes are neatly pruned, and each bed is labeled so you know exactly which variety you're admiring. Low hedges line the paths, trimmed just right so nothing blocks your view.

And right in the center of it all, you’ll find a small pond, framed by two graceful white limestone fountains. The soft sound of flowing water gives the whole place a peaceful rhythm—it’s the kind of spot where time seems to slow down.

Right by a quiet, man-made lake and surrounded by the towering chestnut trees of Retiro Park, you’ll find the Crystal Palace—one of Madrid’s most remarkable examples of iron-and-glass architecture. Initially built in 1887 as a giant greenhouse for the Philippine Islands Flora Exhibition, it was closely modeled on London’s famous Crystal Palace in Hyde Park.

With its wide glass panels and slender iron columns, the building feels light, almost dreamlike. Sunlight floods in from every angle, bouncing off the glass and casting reflections that shift throughout the day. Cast iron columns support the structure, creating a grand and elegant interior. A full restoration in 1975 helped bring it back to its former glory.

These days, the Crystal Palace isn’t home to tropical plants—but to art, regularly hosting temporary exhibits and installations that make creative use of the open, light-filled space. Admission is free, so you’re welcome to step inside and take it all in—whether you're there for the art or simply to soak in the atmosphere. And if you catch it at sunset, when the lights come on, the whole place seems to take on another life again.

Tip: If you’re after that perfect photo, aim for sunrise. The early light reflecting off the lake and catching the glass panels gives the whole place a magical glow.

Designed by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, this marvel was constructed between 1881 and 1883 for the National Exhibition of Mining, Metallurgical Arts, Ceramics, Glassware, and Mineral Waters. Today, it’s the only surviving structure from that event—an elegant reminder of a moment when industrial innovation met artistic ambition.

The building itself is rectangular in shape, made up of three connected sections. At the center, there’s a grand entrance with a marble staircase guarded by sphinxes and topped by a beautiful vaulted ceiling of zinc and glass. Large glass panels and iron vaults throughout the structure showcase the architect’s talent for blending light and space. On either side of the main entrance, two quadrangular wings stretch out, each with sloping zinc roofs that complete the design.

The façade was made from recocho brick brought in from Zaragoza, which gives it a textured look with warm tones and slight irregularities. Ceramic accents from the Moncloa Porcelain Factory add extra detail, especially around the arches and decorative spaces. Altogether, it’s a rich blend of 19th-century materials—granite, brick, ceramic, stucco, iron, zinc, and glass—brought together with careful craftsmanship.

The palace was officially opened on May 30, 1883, by King Alfonso XII of Spain and King Luís I of Portugal, marking a proud moment in the country’s cultural and industrial history. Today, it is part of the Queen Sofia National Museum Art Centre, hosting temporary art exhibitions that bring new life to this space.

Back in 1914, Madrid’s Chief Gardener, Cecilio Rodríguez, introduced a small entry fee to what was then known as the “House of Beasts” and its surrounding gardens. The goal was to raise money for much-needed upgrades—like paving the main path, planting shrubs, and improving the animal enclosures. Today, those same gardens blend beautifully with the neighboring Herrero Palacios ones, created by Cecilio Rodríguez’s successor.

Not far from the main entrance, you’ll come across a striking sculpture—the Fountain of the Seagulls. Unveiled in 1962, it shows a flock of seagulls taking flight above a stone menhir, creating a sense of movement and grace. The garden still holds much of its original charm: leafy pergolas, elegant iron arches, tranquil ponds, and winding paths. Along the left-hand wall, you’ll find a bronze bust of Cecilio Rodríguez himself, placed there by the city in 1949 as a quiet tribute to the man who helped shape this green retreat.

At the far end of the gardens, a covered gazebo serves as a venue for social events hosted by the city. To keep the area peaceful and secure, the iron gates are closed at night and during official functions. However, while walking the paths, don’t be surprised if a few peacocks wander by—they’ve made this place their home.

In the 19th century, this spot was home to the so-called “Elephant Bath”—a privately-run pool where the park’s elephant could cool off. When it wasn’t in use, they rented it out for dog baths. The money raised helped fund new animals and kept the House of Beasts running—proving that even in a royal park, practical thinking has always had its place.

Retiro Park’s “Pleasure Lake” is one of its most visited spots—and for good reason. On its eastern edge stands the park’s largest preserved monument, a towering tribute to King Alfonso XII. Unveiled in 1922, the monument had been in the works for two decades, originally commissioned by Queen Maria Cristina and funded by public donations. The winning design came from Catalan architect José Grases Riera, best known for his work on Madrid’s ornate Longoria Palace.

Up close, the monument is even more impressive. Around twenty sculptors contributed to its rich detail, from the proud stone lions guarding the pond, to figures of mermaids and symbolic carvings representing Science, Agriculture, the Army, and the Navy. The centerpiece, of course, is the bronze equestrian statue of Alfonso XII himself. Just below it, a wide staircase leads down to the lake, offering a popular spot to sit and watch the sunset reflect across the water.

Here’s a tip: if you’re curious about the view from the top, you can actually climb up to the monument’s viewpoint during special guided visits organized by the Madrid City Council. These are part of the “Pasea Madrid” program and include fascinating stories about the monument’s creation, plus sweeping views of Retiro Park. Visits typically take place on Tuesdays and Thursdays, between 3 and 5:30 in the afternoon. Slots fill up fast, so be sure to book early. The viewpoint is also open during select months like September and October—so keep an eye out if you’re planning ahead.

As you wander through the leafy paths of Retiro Park, surrounded by peaceful greenery, something a bit unexpected catches your eye. It’s small, colorful, and somewhat out of place—in the best possible way. You glance again, just to be sure, and there it is: the Fisherman’s House—a charming little surprise in the middle of the park.

It turns out this quirky spot has a story. Tucked away in the park’s northeast corner, not far from the Artificial Mountain, the Fisherman’s House dates back to the early 1800s. After the devastation of the War of Independence, King Ferdinand VII took on the task of rebuilding Retiro Park. As part of that revival, he added a few whimsical structures—like the Persian Salon, and this small lakeside cottage. Back then, they were known as "caprices"—playful, decorative buildings that added a bit of fantasy to royal life.

Surrounded by a small pond, the Fisherman’s House was once a royal hideaway. The king and his family would come here to relax and fish, far from the formality of court life. Picture it—royalty, sitting on little stools, casting lines into the pond. Yes, that really happened.

The house itself is undeniably charming, with its pinkish walls, Pompeian-style frescoes, and just the right amount of kitsch. The niches that once held Roman busts now stand empty, but the spirit of the place is still very much alive. After years of sitting quietly, it had a second life as a tourist information center. And now, it’s stepping into a new role—as the home of Madrid’s Municipal Pet Adoption Center. A fitting next chapter for a spot that's always offered a little bit of joy.