Ernest Hemingway's Madrid Walking Tour (Self Guided), Madrid

Dating all the way back to 1725, Sobrino de Botín holds the title of Europe’s oldest continuously operating restaurant—as recognized by the Guinness Book of Records. Originally called Casa Botín, it was founded by a Frenchman named Jean Botín and his wife. In the beginning, it functioned more like a tavern than a restaurant. But after Mrs. Botín passed away, her nephew took over, and the name changed to Sobrino de Botín—which means “Botín’s Nephew” in Spanish.

Step inside, and you'll find yourself in a maze of cozy, rustic dining rooms, where centuries of history seem to linger in the air. Botín is especially famous for two signature dishes: “cochinillo”, or roast suckling pig, and “cordero lechal”, tender roast lamb. The recipes haven’t changed over the years, and believe it or not, the wood-fired oven has never gone cold—it’s been burning continuously for three centuries.

The restaurant has also seen its fair share of famous faces. The legendary Spanish painter Francisco de Goya is said to have worked here as a young waiter while waiting to get into the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. And Ernest Hemingway was a loyal fan—he even gave the place a nod in the final pages of “The Sun Also Rises”, writing, “We lunched upstairs at Botín's. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta.”

If you’re thinking of visiting, be sure to book ahead. Tables fill up fast, and once you step through those doors, it’s easy to see why.

Right on the edge of Santa Ana Square sits the German Beerhouse—once a favorite haunt of none other than Ernest Hemingway, and a regular stop for stars of the day like Ava Gardner, who spent quite a bit of time in Madrid during the 20th century.

The brewery was founded back in 1904 by a group of German manufacturers, which explains the name. And while the city around it has evolved, this place has kept its old-school charm. Hemingway himself once called it “a good place to drink beer and coffee”—preferably, he added, in the company of “the most beautiful woman in the world.” His regular table still stands in the front right-hand corner, and honestly, it’s not hard to imagine him strolling in, ordering a drink, and watching the world go by.

Inside, you’ll find wooden beams, old hat racks, and black-and-white photos of past bullfights lining the walls. There’s nothing flashy here—just classic beer hall vibes and bowls of olives instead of bells and whistles.

The food is filling, the beer selection is wide—with options from Germany, Belgium, and Spain—and the service is fast and straightforward. If order a “caña”, that small glass of draught beer that’s perfect on a hot day, be mindful of those tapas plates. They may be tiny, but they add up quickly when the bill arrives.

Covered in vintage posters and carrying the quiet echoes of another time, La Venencia is one of Madrid’s most atmospheric bars. Tucked away in the city center, it earned its reputation during the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s, when it became a favored spot for Republican soldiers, sympathizers, and journalists—among them, Ernest Hemingway. As a war correspondent, Hemingway often dropped by, hoping to catch news from the front and, of course, sip a glass of sherry.

Today, you’ll find that not much has changed. The smell of smoke may be gone, of course, but the wooden barrels still line the walls, the floor is still covered in sawdust, and there’s a certain dusty patina on the bottles behind the bar that suggests they’ve been sitting there since Hemingway’s last visit. This place hasn’t been dressed up for tourists. It’s the real deal.

The bar is usually packed with Madrileños, and the atmosphere still carries hints of its past. A sign on the wall reads “Don’t spit on the floor,” a leftover from the Civil War days. In keeping with its Republican roots, La Venencia continues to enforce two classic house rules—no photography, and no tipping. The no-photo policy began as a way to protect patrons from potential fascist spies; as for the no-tipping rule—well, it reflects the bar’s deep-rooted socialist values.

A true Madrid classic, the Palace Hotel began its life as the grand residence of the Duke of Lerma, before opening its doors as a luxury hotel in 1911—becoming the second of its kind in Spain. Ever since, it’s stood proudly across from Neptuno Square, staring straight at its old rival, the Ritz, like a jilted lover with a touch of pride. And while the Ritz may win in name recognition, the Palace has always let its charm speak for itself.

Back in the early 20th century, when the Ritz decided to ban actors and entertainers from its guest list, the Palace threw its doors wide open—and the stars came flooding in. Mata Hari, the mysterious dancer and alleged spy, stayed here during World War I—some say her spirit never really left. And the guest list only got better. Hemingway, Dalí, and Lorca were all regulars at the hotel’s cocktail bar, a space that still welcomes guests to sink into velvet couches and sip on a wine, a Mai Tai, or whatever your drink of choice may be.

If you’re in the mood for a proper meal, head to the first-floor restaurant. The service is elegant, the food is exceptional, and the setting is unforgettable. And while you’re there, be sure to look up when you enter the rotunda—the ceiling artwork, especially the image of a gondola floating in a dreamlike sky, adds a little extra magic to the experience.

Useful tip: if you’re planning to visit the Prado Museum, skip the lines and get your tickets at the hotel concierge—easy and convenient!

Just a short walk from Cibeles Square, you’ll come across the Circle of Fine Arts—a cultural landmark with a long and storied past. It was first founded in 1881, became a Center for the Protection of Fine Arts in 1921, and was later declared a National Historic Building in 1981. The edifice you see today, with its grand ballroom, exhibition halls, theater, library, and studios for artists and sculptors, has been the institution’s home since 1926.

While full access is reserved for members, visitors can still experience a good portion of what the Circle has to offer by paying a small admission fee. That includes entry to the current exhibitions, as well as the rooftop terrace and the café. Known as “La Pecera” or “The Fishbowl” due to its large windows, the café makes for a lovely spot to enjoy a coffee or breakfast while people-watching along busy Alcalá Street. With views like that, it’s no surprise the place fills up fast—so it’s a good idea to book ahead or arrive a little early if you want a seat.

And here’s a fun bit of history: Ernest Hemingway often stayed just around the corner at the Hotel Suecia and was a regular visitor to the Circle. Over the years, this space has welcomed countless artists, writers, and thinkers. For anyone with a love for the arts, it’s one of those places in Madrid you simply shouldn’t miss.

When planning your time in Madrid, don’t let the name fool you—Chicote isn’t a museum but rather one of the city’s classic cocktail bars, right on Gran Vía. Opened in 1931, it quickly became a favorite gathering place for foreign correspondents during the Spanish Civil War. Ernest Hemingway was a regular here, naturally. And while the bar has kept much of its original 1930s charm, it’s been updated with modern lighting, a dance floor, and some of Spain’s top DJs to keep the energy going well into the night.

All around the bar, the walls are lined with black-and-white photos of the many legends who’ve stopped in for a drink. Beyond Hemingway, you’ll spot the faces of Salvador Dalí, Sophia Loren, Frank Sinatra, Orson Welles, and many more. Chicote has long been a magnet for stars, and stepping inside feels a bit like walking into a living piece of history.

These days, it draws plenty of tourists, but the vibe remains relaxed and refined—the perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail. You won’t find flashy or overly complicated drinks here—just the classics, made the old-fashioned way. No artificial juices or shortcuts. Every cocktail is mixed with care, attention, and just the right chill. It’s cocktail-making as it was meant to be—simple, precise, and timeless.

Designed by Spanish architect Ignacio de Cárdenas and inspired by the work of American architect Lewis Weeks, this 90-meter tall, 14-story tower was Madrid’s first true skyscraper. Though American in style, it’s dressed in a Spanish Baroque facade, complete with beautifully sculpted details. When it opened in 1929, it was the tallest building in Europe—and instantly became a symbol of modern Madrid. Its clock, perched high above Gran Vía, still stands as a familiar landmark on what locals call the “Madrilenian Broadway.”

One fascinating chapter in the building’s history came during the Spanish Civil War, when it served as the headquarters for the foreign press, attracting journalists from all over the world. One of them was Ernest Hemingway, who, during the late 1930s, reported from the heart of the action. It was here that he found inspiration for “For Whom the Bell Tolls”, as he watched the conflict unfold between the Nationalists and Republicans. The building’s height, while impressive, also made it a target for Franco’s bombing raids.

These days, Telefónica’s role is far more peaceful. On the ground floor, you’ll find a calm café and a shop with the latest in communication gear. Upstairs, several floors are dedicated to the Museum of Telecommunications, the Technology Museum, and rotating art exhibitions. There's always something new to discover, and the best part? Admission is completely free.