Rome Introduction Walking Tour II (Self Guided), Rome

The Spanish Steps, a monumental stairway of 135 steps, holds the distinction of being the longest and widest in Europe. The steps link Spanish Square, at the base, with the Trinity of the Mountains Square at the top.

The stairway was completed under Pope Clement XI in 1717, deriving its name from the nearby Spanish Embassy to the Holy See. Financed in part by a French diplomat, it features Baroque elements, inspired by garden stairs, and incorporates symbolic decorations such as the Bourbon heraldic lily flowers and papal eagles.

As a cultural and seasonal hub hosting public events such as Christmas cribs, spring azalea displays, and a flower market, the Spanish Steps have captivated artists and people of letters since the 18th century. Among them was the renowned English poet, John Keats, who lived and died practically next door. His house, at the base of the steps (located to the right, if you face the stairs), is now a museum.

Other nearby landmarks include the Ferrari di Valbona Palace, redesigned in 1936, and Babington's tea room, a resilient establishment that has withstood two world wars and numerous adversities, ultimately becoming a beloved tourist attraction.

The steps' cinematic appeal also made them a backdrop for numerous films, including the Hollywood blockbuster “Roman Holiday” made in 1953, starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. In the scene where Joe Bradley, played by Peck, meets Princess Ann, played by Hepburn, she sits on the steps, enjoying the view and eating ice cream. Fresh after the haircut, the princess takes compliments for her new look and confesses to Joe that she has run away from school. She accepts his proposal to spend the day together before she returns, and thus the Roman Holiday story begins!

Other filmmakers also made a mark on the steps, such as “The Talented Mr. Ripley” movie with Matt Damon, shot in 1999, and “Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning Part One,” featuring Tom Cruise, which premiered at the steps on June 19, 2023.

Consequently, the Spanish Steps became a magnet for aspiring models, affluent Romans, international travelers, and people from all walks of life. The tradition of gathering here is deeply ingrained in the locals and visitors alike. Today, the steps are protected by strict regulations against loitering, eating, or damaging, with heavy fines introduced to maintain decorum.

Tip:
The staircase offers picturesque views of Rome from its pinnacle, particularly at sunset—a truly unbeatable sight!
The afternoon and late hours are the best for visiting, so to avoid the heat of the day.
Alongside tourist activities such as carriage rides, you'll find nearby an array of shops and bars worth exploring.

The Spanish Square is one of Rome's most popular destinations, known for its blend of historical and cultural significance. Dominated by the iconic Spanish Steps, the square also serves as a hub for high fashion, with designer boutiques lining the surrounding streets.

At the base of the Spanish Steps lies the "Fountain of the Longboat," an Early Baroque masterpiece created between 1627 and 1629. Commissioned by Pope Urban VIII as part of a project to install fountains in Rome’s major squares, it was designed by Pietro Bernini, possibly with assistance from his son, Gian Lorenzo. The fountain’s design, a half-sunken boat overflowing with water, was inspired by a local legend. During a devastating flood of the River Tiber in 1598, a small boat was reportedly carried to the square and left there as the waters receded. The fountain’s water flows gently due to the low pressure of the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, adding a soothing charm.

The fountain also features symbolic details, such as the Barberini family's papal coat of arms, honoring Pope Urban VIII’s ancestry. Its intricate design includes water flowing from seven points, with streams emerging from central balusters, human-faced suns inside the boat, and external spouts. This harmonious blend of engineering and artistry reflects the Baroque era's grandeur.

The Spanish Square is steeped in literary history as well. Adjacent to the fountain is the former residence of English poet John Keats, who died there in 1821. Now a museum, the house preserves memorabilia of the Romantic generation. Keats found solace in the sound of the fountain’s water, which inspired the epitaph on his tombstone: "Here lies one whose name was writ in water."

On the right side of the square stands the Ferrari di Valbona Palace, once home to Cardinal Lorenzo Cybo de Mari. The building, remodeled in 1936 under Fascist-era designs, showcases modern terraces that complement the surrounding Baroque architecture.

Spanish Square invites visitors to relax, bask in the sun, and enjoy its timeless beauty. The gentle gurgle of the Longboat Fountain and its rich history make it a serene yet captivating centerpiece of Rome.

Column Square in Rome derives its name from the monumental Column of Marcus Aurelius. Erected in 193 AD, it commemorates the emperor's wars against Germanic tribes along the Danube River. Modeled after Trajan’s Column, this 39.7-meter Doric column features intricate spiral reliefs depicting scenes from these military campaigns.

At a closer look, binoculars or a long-lens camera can reveal intricate images, including a depiction of the so-called "Miracle Rain" attributed to divine intervention. At a desperate moment during one of Marcus Aurelius' battles, the surrounded Romans suffering from heat and thirst were saved by a rainstorm. According to legend, the rain was invoked by an Egyptian magician, and while the Romans drank and regained strength, the storm unleashed fire and thunderbolts upon their enemies. This event reinforced the Romans' belief in their divine right to overcome barbarianism and marked a pivotal moment in the campaign.

The column houses an internal staircase leading to a platform at the top. Originally part of the Field of Mars, possibly situated near the Temple of Marcus Aurelius (now gone), it also served as a funerary monument. In the 16th century, Pope Sixtus V restored the column, placing a statue of Saint Paul on top of it. The latter was done perhaps to Christianize the site or emulate Trajan’s Column, where the same pope had a statue of Saint Peter installed.

The surrounding square evolved over centuries, bordered by prominent structures from different eras. One such is the Chigi Palace. Built in 1562, it now serves as the residence of Italy’s Prime Minister. Another one, Wedekind Palace, constructed in 1838, incorporates Etruscan columns sourced from the ancient city of Veii, which the Romans conquered in the 4th century BC. Other significant buildings include Ferrajoli Palace, once a Papal post office, and Galleria Alberto Sordi, formerly known as the Colonna Gallery, a 19th-century addition.

The square also features a fountain constructed in 1577 to provide clean drinking water to the residents of Rome, restored in 1830. Crafted from pink marble sourced from the Greek island of Chios, it features an oval basin adorned with 16 intricately carved white-marble lion heads. At each end of the basin, two groups of dolphins entwine their tails around seashells, spouting water from their mouths, adding further to the site’s aesthetic appeal.

The Church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola at the Mars Field in Rome is a Baroque Latin Catholic titular church, dedicated to the founder of the Society of Jesus. Constructed between 1626 and 1650, it initially served as the chapel for the Roman College, later the Pontifical Gregorian University. This grand 17th-century preaching temple exemplifies the Counter-Reformation's architectural and religious fervor.

The church's history is rooted in the Roman College, established in 1551. Built on the land initially intended for a Poor Clares monastery, the available limited space prompted Jesuit architect Giovanni Tristano to complete a modest Church of the Annunciation in 1567. However, the church soon became inadequate for the college's growing student body.

After Ignatius of Loyola's canonization in 1622, Pope Gregory XV proposed to build a larger church. His nephew, Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi, commissioned Jesuit mathematician Orazio Grassi to design the new structure. Construction began in 1626 and culminated in 1650, replacing the smaller church and occupying a quarter of the Roman College's block. Its Rococo square was added later.

The church's Latin cross plan, Corinthian pilasters, marble adornments, and gilded interiors mirror the Jesuit mother church, the Gesù. The grandiose frescoes painted by a Jesuit lay brother Andrea Pozzo are a highlight, particularly his trompe-l'œil ceiling depicting Saint Ignatius's reception into heaven. The artist's mastery of perspective creates the illusion of a dome, compensating for budgetary constraints. Other frescoes in the apse illustrate key moments in Ignatius's life and Jesuit missionary efforts.

Numerous chapels enrich the interior, featuring works by prominent French and Italian artists. One such is the chapel of Gregory XV and Cardinal Ludovisi, containing a grand funerary monument. Other notable burials include Saints Aloysius Gonzaga (the 16th-century Italian aristocrat who died while caring for the victims of a serious epidemic), Robert Bellarmine (a canonized cardinal), and John Berchmans (the revered Belgian Jesuit scholastic).

The Pantheon stands as one of Rome's key attractions, with its dome and columns serving as a timeless inspiration for architects throughout the centuries. The initial temple on this site was constructed in 27 BC during the consulship of Marcus Agrippa. Although it suffered from fires and lightning strikes during the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, it was consistently rebuilt and gradually acquired its distinctive circular shape. Under Emperor Hadrian, the temple was dedicated to "pan theos", representing all the gods of Rome, which is where the term "pantheon" originated.

Following the decline of the Western Roman Empire, the Pantheon remained under the control of Byzantine emperors, despite their waning influence over the city. In the 7th century, one of these emperors donated the temple to Pope Boniface IV, who transformed it into a Christian church and dedicated it to St. Mary and all the Martyrs. This conversion ensured the Pantheon's preservation, unlike many other non-Christian Roman temples that were demolished. From the Renaissance onwards, the Pantheon served as a burial site for prominent Italians, including the renowned artist Raphael and Victor Emmanuel II, the king of Italy, among others.

One of the structure's most remarkable features is its unsupported concrete dome, the largest of its kind in the world, which remains remarkably well-preserved and exhibits a breathtaking beauty when illuminated by sunlight. The ingenious engineering of the drainage system on the Pantheon's floor continues to effectively divert rainwater, which is particularly impressive considering the originality of the floors. The massive bronze doors, each weighing over 20 tons, add to the awe-inspiring nature of this architectural marvel.

While entry to the Pantheon is free, many visitors find equal enjoyment sitting outside on the steps of the fountain in Rotonda Square ("Piazza della Rotonda"). Here, they can savor gelato, observe passers-by, and admire the magnificence of this ancient structure, becoming part of their unforgettable Roman holiday experience.

Why You Should Visit:
Italian baroque meets Roman architectural excellence!
Surely among the world's most amazing free attractions.

Tip:
Incredible at night (on the outside), especially if you enjoy musicians with talent and engagement... but be aware of pickpockets.

Tucked away just behind the Pantheon in Minerva Square, Santa Maria above Minerva is a Dominican church and a hidden gem of both religious and artistic importance. In ancient times, there were three temples in this area respectively dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, the Graeco-Egyptian deity Serapis, and the Roman goddess Minerva. The current basilica's name is attributed to the latter.

The church represents a rare example of Gothic architecture in Rome, as most medieval churches were modified with Baroque designs. Its restrained Renaissance façade contrasts with a Neo-Gothic interior featuring blue, star-studded vaulting and red ribbing. The several stained-glass roundels, including one depicting Mary surrounded by saints, are rightfully considered to be the finest examples of stained glass in all of the city.

The building, commenced by the Dominicans in 1280, was inspired by Santa Maria Novella in Florence. Pope Zachary initially Christianized the area in the 8th century, followed by the construction of a Gothic church under Pope Alexander IV. The site underwent multiple renovations, including Baroque modifications and 19th-century Neo-Gothic restorations.

As the former Dominican order's headquarters, Santa Maria above Minerva boasts remarkable artistic treasures. Michelangelo’s Christ the Redeemer sculpture and the frescoes in the Carafa Chapel, commissioned by Cardinal Oliviero Carafa, highlight its artistic value.

Michelangelo’s sculpture is found to the left of the main altar and is the second version thereof. The first version, begun in 1515, was abandoned due to a flaw in the marble. The one we see today received acclaim for its artistry, particularly its lifelike knees. Originally, Michelangelo depicted Christ unclothed to symbolize his triumph over sin, however, a bronze loincloth was added in 1546.

Inside the church, there is a chapel honoring Saint Thomas Aquinas with scenes of Marian devotion and depictions of Saint Thomas's glory. Other notable chapels include that of the Rosary, the Aldobrandini Chapel with Pope Clement VIII’s parents' tomb, and the Chapel of Raymond of Penyafort, featuring frescoes by Italian Renaissance painter and architect Melozzo da Forlì.

The church is also a resting place for several historical figures. One such is Saint Catherine of Siena (except for her head, which is held in Siena). Her tomb is a focal point, and the room where she died was reconstructed here in 1637. Renaissance artist Fra Angelico is buried here, too, alongside the Medici Popes Leo X and Clement VII. Other notable burials include Popes Urban VII and Paul IV, philosopher George of Trebizond, and architect Filarete.

Navona Square, one of Rome’s most iconic places, is built on the site of the ancient (1st-century AD) Stadium of Domitian. The stadium’s elongated oval shape defines the square’s layout, originally designed for Roman games (or agones). Over time, the name evolved from Circus Agonalis (which means “competition arena”) to Navona. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the stadium fell into ruin and was quarried for materials, leaving few remnants today.

In the late 15th century, Navona Square was designated a public space when the city market moved there from Capitoline Hill. It became a celebrated example of Baroque architecture and art during the mid-17th century under Pope Innocent X, whose family property, the Pamphili Palace, overlooks the square. The latter also features several masterpieces, including Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers at its center, crowned by the Obelisk of Domitian. The renowned Church of Saint Agnes in Agone with its impressive dome further highlights the area's artistic significance. Also noteworthy is the Braschi Palace, presently home to the Museum of Rome, and the Cupis Palace, which now offers pre-booked accommodations.

Navona Square is also home to two additional fountains. The Fountain of the Moor, at the southern end, was originally sculpted by Giacomo della Porta in 1575, with Bernini adding a statue of a Moor wrestling a dolphin in 1673. At the northern end, the Fountain of Neptune, also by della Porta (created in 1574), gained its central Neptune statue in 1878.

The square has a rich cultural history, hosting theatrical performances and festivals, including a popular Christmas market held annually, from December to January.

Navona Square made an appearance in several movies, including “Angels & Demons” (of 2008, starring Tom Hanks), “Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow” (with Sophie Loren, made in 1964), and “The Talented Mr. Ripley” (directed in 1999 by Anthony Minghella, featuring Matt Damon). The atmosphere in Navona Square exudes a cool and relaxed vibe which, complete with its cinematic and architectural appeal, makes it an ideal spot for photography.

Tip:
In the evenings, when the central fountain is illuminated, the square becomes particularly scenic.
If looking for more intimate and more value-for-money meals and refreshments, consider venturing onto one of the side streets adjacent to the square, filled with multiple eateries and cafes.

The focal point of Navona Square, the Fountain of the Four Rivers has been in place since the 17th century. While Rome has a longstanding affinity for fountains, dating back to antiquity, the Baroque era brought a new dimension to these water features, showcasing the generosity of the papacy.

In the case of the Fountain of the Four Rivers, Pope Innocent X, whose family seat – the Pamphili Palace – overlooks the square, entrusted the task to one of the most groundbreaking artists of the time, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Created in 1651, the fountain was Rome's pinnacle achievement in fountain design, a symbolic masterpiece brimming with the dynamic and dramatic elements sought after by Baroque artists. Its central Egyptian obelisk is crowned with the Pamphili emblem, a dove with an olive twig.

Pope Innocent X chose Bernini after being secretly shown his model. The fountain was innovative, combining sculpture and architecture in a way unmatched by previous Roman fountains.

Here, the travertine base supports sculptures of four river gods, representing the major rivers of the continents over which papal authority had extended at that time. These include the Nile (for Africa), the Danube (for Europe), the Ganges (for Asia), and the Río de la Plata (for the Americas). Each figure conveys symbolic details: the Ganges is depicted holding a long oar, symbolizing the river's navigability; the Nile's veiled head signifies its unknown source; the Danube, the largest river near Rome touches the Pope's coat of arms; and the Río de la Plata sits atop a pile of coins, reflecting America’s wealth.

The fountain's unveiling on June 12, 1651, was marked by grand celebrations orchestrated by the Pamphili family. Allegorical figures of Fame and Curiosity paraded the streets, urging Romans to witness the reveal. The crowd marveled at the lifelike sculptures and water features, described as naturalistic and astonishing.

However, the project faced significant public opposition. Critics condemned its expense during the famine of 1646–48, expressing their discontent through pasquinades demanding "Bread, not fountains." Street vendors and Roman Jews lamented their displacement from the square's market, which was closed to enhance its splendor.

Despite the controversy, the Fountain of the Four Rivers remains a cornerstone of Rome’s cultural and architectural legacy, blending mythology, artistry, and historical narrative.

Tip:
To capture the essence of this fountain in photographs, it is recommended to shoot from various angles and positions, so as to get as much detail as possible. With ample space surrounding the fountain, take your time to find the perfect shot—or perhaps even multiple perfect shots.

The Mausoleum of Hadrian, commonly known as the Castle of the Holy Angel, is a cylindrical tower in Rome’s Adriano Park. Commissioned by Emperor Hadrian between 134 and 139 AD as a family mausoleum, it was once the tallest building in Rome.

Initially, the mausoleum housed the ashes of Hadrian, his wife Sabina, and subsequent emperors, ending with Caracalla in 217. The structure was adorned with a garden-topped cylinder and a golden quadriga. Hadrian also built the nearby Pons Aelius bridge, which still offers a scenic route adorned with Baroque angel statues.

In 401, the mausoleum was converted into a fortress and incorporated into Rome's Aurelian Walls. Over centuries, its treasures and urns were scattered, including during the Visigoth sack of Rome in 410. The building also served as a defense during the Gothic siege in 537, with statues thrown down on attackers. Some remnants, like a capstone from Hadrian's urn, found their way into significant structures such as Saint Peter’s Basilica.

Legend holds that Archangel Michael appeared over the building in 590, signaling the end of a plague and inspiring the castle's current name. The statue of Michael atop the castle, first sculpted in 1536 and replaced by a bronze version in 1753, commemorates this event.

The popes transformed the structure into a fortress and residence. Pope Nicholas III linked it to Saint Peter's Basilica with the fortified Borgo Passage, while Clement VII used it as a refuge during the 1527 Sack of Rome (by the mutinous troops of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V). The castle also became a prison, housing figures like the Italian philosopher and astrologer Giordano Bruno. Executions occurred in its courtyard, and the structure was immortalized in Puccini’s opera Tosca.

Decommissioned as a fortress in 1901, the castle now operates as a museum, attracting over a million visitors per year. It offers a fascinating display, featuring cannons, armor, and ornately decorated papal apartments. A highlight is the hidden passageway connecting the Vatican to the castle.

Visitors can enjoy coffee with incredible views of Saint Peter's Basilica at the on-site café. For breathtaking panoramas of Rome and Vatican City, head to the rooftop terrace, ideal on clear days or evenings to experience the city's vibrant nighttime charm. While there is some walking involved, the museum is easily navigable and offers a memorable blend of history, architecture, and stunning vistas.