Salvador Introduction Walking Tour (Self Guided), Salvador

In Salvador’s Pelourinho district lies Jesus Square, where colonial heritage meets vibrant street energy. Back in 1948, it got a fresh look with black-and-white Portuguese tiles, shells, and beach pebbles. While most of the square’s charming features come from that makeover, an old fountain and a few patches of greenery still hold onto the past.

Wind the clock back even further—to the 16th century—and you’ll find a Jesuit mission on this very spot, which gradually evolved into the city’s favorite hub for religious celebrations, civic events, and good old-fashioned mingling. After the Jesuits packed up and moved on, the 17th-century Cathedral Basilica took center stage, flaunting its Baroque architecture that still turns heads today. Other architectural gems frame the square, as well: the 18th-century Church of Saint Dominic of Osma and the Church of Saint Peter of the Clergymen, a blend of Rococo and Neoclassical styles from the 19th century.

Not just about churches, the square also offers a dose of culture. Pop into the Afro-Brazilian Museum, set within the walls of what was Brazil’s first-ever medical school, dating back to 1833. Outside, the streets come alive with performers dazzling crowds with capoeira acrobatics and irresistible Bahian rhythms, while vendors entice passersby with tasty local snacks and handmade crafts. Don’t be surprised if you spot locals dressed in traditional, colorful outfits—turbans, flowing skirts, and all—eager to strike a pose.

And if hunger strikes, the surrounding restaurants are ready to treat you to a taste of Bahia’s signature flavors. Come for the history, stay for the culture, or linger over a great meal—Jesus Square serves up a delightful mix of it all.

The 17th-century Cathedral Basilica, also known as the “Sé,” is the undisputed matriarch of Brazilian Catholic churches. A heady mix of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical flair, this architectural diva was originally built as part of a Jesuit monastic and educational complex. Built from sandstone blocks shipped all the way from Portugal, its history took a dramatic turn in the 1620s when the Dutch captured it, turned it into a warehouse, and made off with its silver finery. After the Portuguese regained control, the church was rebuilt in a Mannerist style to mimic the Jesuit Church of Coimbra back in Portugal. Even a devastating fire in the early 1900s could not hold it down; by 1933, it was restored once more, proving it’s as indestructible as it is elegant.

Step inside and you’re treated to a feast of colonial opulence: 16th-century tiles in the sacristy shipped from Macau, intricate ivory and tortoiseshell inlays from Goa on the third altar on the right, and enough gold leaf to dazzle the eye at every turn. Indeed, the church’s 13 gold-plated altars are a stunning display, covered in over 50,000 gold leaves, 5,000 silver leaves, and shaped by countless hours of skilled craftsmanship.

If that’s not enough, you’ll be treated to a gallery of 17th-century paintings, 30 carefully restored reliquary busts, and two exquisite altars that rank among the finest examples of late 16th-century Brazilian sacred art. The nave, crowned with the Latin inscription “IHS” (Jesus Humanity Savior), was painstakingly assembled over two years by five master carpenters using four shiploads of noble woods. Clearly, no expense—or effort—was spared.

As the glittering centerpiece of Salvador’s UNESCO-listed Historic Center, this cathedral rolls out the red carpet for history buffs and art lovers.

The moment you set foot in this square, you’ll be met with a baroque symphony of ornate church spires, pastel-hued mansions, and the cubist-like patchwork of houses cascading down the steep hillsides. It’s no wonder UNESCO crowned this area as the most important cluster of 17th- and 18th-century colonial architecture in the Americas. High praise—and well-deserved.

Locals have always called it Pillory Square. The name harks back to its grim past as the site of Salvador’s infamous whipping post, where public flogging was a legal spectacle until 1835. But these days, the scene is nothing short of joyful. By day, you may find vendors selling colorful naif paintings and enthusiastically offering to braid tourists’ hair. When the sun sets, the air fills with the hypnotic rhythms of Afro-Bahian blocos like Olodum, whose beats practically demand that you get up and dance.

Amid this lively backdrop, the City Museum calls a stately colonial mansion home. Inside, Catholic saints and ex-votos share space with statues of African deities and Candomblé artifacts. There’s also a secular side, with pieces from local artists and a room dedicated to Castro Alves, the celebrated abolitionist and Romantic poet.

Next door, you’ll find the Jorge Amado House, a small but heartfelt tribute to Bahia’s beloved author of “Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands.” Photos, book covers, and memorabilia fill the rooms, while a cozy on-site café named after his wife, Zélia Gattai, invites you to pause and sip. If that stirs your appetite for even more Bahian flavor, head over to the Bahian Gastronomy Museum—a delightful way to dive into the region’s culinary heritage.

Perched midway down Pillory Square, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People radiates a striking blue hue, standing as a symbol of black resilience and resistance. Catholic or not, it’s a Salvadorian showstopper you don’t want to miss.

Back in the day, Portugal’s king granted the land to an Afro-Brazilian brotherhood made up of slaves and free blacks. With a vision in mind, they got to work and spent the better part of the 18th century bringing it to life. The facade may be classic Rococo, but those tiled towers with a touch of Indian flair are, in fact, courtesy of Portugal’s colonial ties to Goa, a city on the western coast of India.

Beyond its unique architecture, the church is a living tribute to the African diaspora. Services are laced with Candomblé-inspired rhythms, as the sounds of Afro-Brazilian atabaque drums join the traditional Catholic liturgy. Tuesdays are particularly special—the Mass transforms into a vibrant tapestry of song and dance. Word to the wise: show up early if you want a seat—standing room is all you’ll find once the service kicks off.

And when Saint Barbara and Iansã celebrations roll around? It’s not just a Mass anymore—it’s a full-blown, spirited festival, with this church at its center.

The Church and Convent of Saint Francis is more than just a historic site—it’s officially one of the Seven Wonders of Portuguese Origin in the World. And it’s easy to see why: the place is overflowing with grandeur and historic charm.

The original church and convent were built by Franciscan friars after their arrival in Salvador in 1587. Sadly, they didn’t withstand the Dutch invasions of the 17th century; however, in the early 1700s, new construction began on the very same site, giving rise to the structures that stand today.

Now a certified national treasure, the interior is home to a jaw-dropping 55,000 hand-painted Portuguese tiles—the largest collection of its kind in any Latin American church. Among the highlights is a striking tiled scene depicting the birth of Saint Francis. Surrounding this masterpiece are intricately carved wood panels dusted with gold, showcasing classic Brazilian Baroque motifs: leaves, pelicans, flowers, and cherubic figures.

Look even closer and you’ll find polychrome statues from Bahia's finest sculptors, as well as intricately carved wood, and even a pair of stone fonts straight from the hands of King João V of Portugal. You’ll also be rewarded with a painted ceiling above, ornate pulpits to the side, and an impressive lineup of saintly figures: Saint Peter of Alcantara, Saint Benedict, Saint Joseph, the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Saint Anthony, and, of course, Saint Francis of Assisi presiding over the high altar. The left aisle brings its own celestial ensemble: Our Lady of the Conception, Our Lady of Glory, Our Lady of Piety, Our Lady of Saint Anne, joined by Saint Lucy and Saint Dominic for good measure.

Out front, a massive stone cross completes the scene. Standing at 26 feet tall and hauled all the way from Lisbon in 1807, it’s the perfect cherry on top of this baroque masterpiece.

Salvador’s famous public elevator, the Lacerda, links the historic Upper City to the commerical Lower City in a breezy 20 seconds. Born in the 1870s as a cutting-edge hydraulic marvel, today’s version runs four elevators that can whisk about two dozen passengers each. Anchored firmly to the rock, it handles an impressive daily flow of roughly 50,000 people.

From the upper platform, the view is a feast for the eyes: the lively Modelo Market, the busy port, and the vast, shimmering expanse of the Bay of All Saints—a perfect perch for photo ops and taking in the scenery.

Whether you’re bound for the Modelo Market, hopping a bus to Bonfim, or catching a boat to Itaparica, the elevator is your fast-track connection. And for those looking to linger, A Cubana Sorvetes—a 1930s favorite—is right there, ready to serve up a fizzy coco espumante, the retro coconut ice cream soda you didn’t know you needed.

Salvador’s City Council story kicks off in 1549, the very year the city was founded. What began as a humble mud-and-thatch hut grew into a lasting landmark. Today’s structure, completed in 1696, is Brazil’s first City Council building—a real veteran of history, a testament to the city’s resilience and architectural evolution.

By the late 1800s, local architect Francisco Caminhoá gave it a Neoclassical glow-up, complete with a clock tower. But the 1970s restoration team had other plans, peeling back Caminhoá’s updates to return the building to its 17th-century roots.

These walls have seen it all—political drama, cannon fire, and more. In one particularly explosive chapter, the forts of Saint Marcelo, Saint Peter, and Barbalho decided Municipal Square was the target. While aiming for Rio Branco Palace, they took out the City Council tower and clock along the way. But this building was built to last—brushing off cannonballs and bouncing back stronger each time.

The building also wore multiple hats. Before Salvador’s government moved to Rio Branco Palace, it pulled double duty as City Hall and legislative chamber. In fact, Salvador’s Municipal Square was Brazil’s original “Three Powers Plaza,” hosting the legislative, executive, and judicial branches centuries before the current capital, Brasília.

And in 2025? Things got a bit heated—literally. On the afternoon of February 24, a fire sparked in the Noble Hall’s air conditioning system, spreading to parts of the building. But knowing the City Council’s history, you can bet it’ll take more than a fire to knock it down.

It’s not a church, not a theater, and definitely not just another old building. The Rio Branco Palace is Salvador’s grand dame, standing proud and clutching centuries of Brazilian history in its embrace. Born in 1549—right alongside Brazil’s first capital—this grand landmark’s story is packed with drama, reinvention, and a dash of opulence.

Originally a no-frills government headquarters, the palace served as a command center, residence, and administrative hub for the Portuguese crown. History wasn’t always kind. By 1912, it had taken a devastating hit—bombed to ruins. But like any great landmark, it made a comeback, reopening in 1919 under its current name, a tribute to the revered Baron of Rio Branco. Since then, it’s played many roles: barracks, prison, cultural headquarters, and now, home to Bahia’s Department of Culture.

What visitors might not know is that the ground floor is open to the public, offering one of Salvador’s unparalleled views. Sure, you’ve snapped the Lacerda Lift from every angle, but have you gazed at it from the palace’s unique vantage point? With the Bay of All Saints, Saint Marcelo Fort, and the bustling Lower City unfurled before you, this is the ultimate picture-perfect experience.

Inside, the Memorial of Governors adds another layer of fascination—a treasure chest of artifacts that narrate Brazil’s rich past. Insignias, swords, city keys, and even personal trinkets—ashtrays, letter openers, you name it—paint a picture of the people who helped shape the nation. Salvador’s identity is deeply tied to this memorial. And for the true history lovers out there, a guided tour of the ground-floor rooms is the icing on the cake.

Modelo is not your average marketplace—this sprawling two-story, neoclassical-style wonderland is a celebration of Bahian culture in all its glory. Housing over 250 shops, it offers everything from musical instruments and lacework to leather goods, hammocks, and those famous baiana dolls. And yes, you can grab a Senhor do Bonfim ribbon or two, but that’s just scratching the surface. Hungry? Head straight to the famous Maria de São Pedro or Camafeu de Oxossi, where the food is as legendary as the market itself.

At Oxossi, sip on a hearty shrimp broth, dive into moquecas brimming with fresh fish and shrimp, and top it off with a sweet quindim or cocada—all while gazing at a stunning view of the Bay of All Saints. Meanwhile, Maria de São Pedro serves up dishes that make even literary legends swoon; Jorge Amado himself once sang the praises of shredded crab and other Bahian classics.

Modelo’s history is as colorful as its stalls. Originally a busy supply depot, it housed everything from grains to ceremonial artifacts. When a fire ravaged the original market in 1969, it was reborn in the neoclassical 3rd Customs House in 1971. Another blaze hit later, but Modelo bounced back once again, reopening in 1984 to become the cultural and culinary treasure we know today. When life gives you heat, you just keep on cooking!