Leeds Introduction Walking Tour, Leeds

Leeds Introduction Walking Tour (Self Guided), Leeds

The old Brythonic word "Ladenses" meant "folks of the rapid river." The river was the River Aire that flows through the City of Leeds today. In the 5th century the once forested area of Leeds was part of the Brythonic kingdom of Elmet. The Venerable Bede called it "Loidis." In Welsh it was "lloed", "a place." At any rate, "Leeds."

The people of Leeds received their first charter in 1207 by Lord of the Manor, Maurice Paynel. Leeds was ideally situated on the River Aire and Maurice was eager to exploit the situation and expand his revenues. His charter granted lands to burghers on either side of the Briggate.

Leeds received its first charter of incorporation from Charles I in 1626. The citizens were declared to be, "well acquainted with the Art and Mystery of making Woolen Cloths." By 1770 it provided 30% of the country's woolen exports.

The population reached 150,000 by 1840. Manufacturing, textiles, chemicals, leather and pottery and the ever present wool were driving the economy. Today Leeds is the UK's third largest manufacturing center.

The city has a large pedestrianized zone. Briggate is the main shopping street. Indoor centers include the Merion Centre, St. John's Centre, Victoria Quarter, The Light complex, the Corn Exchange, Trinity Leeds, Victoria Gate and vast shopping arcades. The Leeds Kirkgate Market is one of the largest indoor markets in Europe.

Landmarks include Millennium Square, City Square, Victoria and Mandela Gardens. The Leeds Town Hall, the Corn Exchange and the Leeds City Museum are must see items. Among notable churches are Leeds Minster, St. George's Church, Leeds Cathedral, and the Church of St. John the Baptist.

Galleries, theaters and festivals abound. The Leeds West Indian Carnival runs for two days. Leeds Festival features rock and indie music in Bramham Park. The Leeds International Film Festival is the biggest outside London. There's the Garforth Art Festival, the Festival Fringe, and Light Night. There's always something.

Energy, excitement, art, inspiration, shopping; Leeds leads.
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Leeds Introduction Walking Tour Map

Guide Name: Leeds Introduction Walking Tour
Guide Location: England » Leeds (See other walking tours in Leeds)
Guide Type: Self-guided Walking Tour (Sightseeing)
# of Attractions: 11
Tour Duration: 2 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 2.7 Km or 1.7 Miles
Author: sabrina
Sight(s) Featured in This Guide:
  • Millennium Square
  • St. Anne's Cathedral
  • Leeds Town Hall
  • The Headrow
  • St John The Evangelist Redundant Church
  • Leeds Grand Theatre
  • Briggate
  • City Square
  • Holy Trinity Church
  • Leeds Corn Exchange
  • Leeds Kirkgate Market
1
Millennium Square

1) Millennium Square

To celebrate the year 2000, Leeds built Millennium Square. It is unique in all respects. It is located in the Civic center of town. Funded by the Leeds City Council and the Millennium Commission, the project came in at a cool 12 million pounds. Hello, Year Two Thousand.

The Square is vast, bordered by Calverley Street and the Brotherton Wing of the Leeds General Infirmary on its west side. On the north side is the Leeds Civic Hall with its classical facade and columned portico flanked by two outrageously high towers and spires.

The square edges to the southeast from the Civic Center, bordered by the Cuthbert Brodrick pub, named for famous Leeds architect Cuthbert Brodrick. The east side fronts the Leeds City Museum, one of Brodrick's works, with an area of plants and benches. Brodrick also designed Leeds Town Hall, a short walk from the square.

Bracketed by Great George and Calverley Streets are the Mandela Gardens. Beside the Gardens is the new Carriageworks Theatre with its outside projection screen, stages and its grenade-shaped control tower. The red brick Electric Press building and the refurbished Victorian Leonardo building are in the east and southeast, respectively.

The idea for the Square was to create an open space and venue for events of up to 5,000 people. The Square hosts civic ceremonies, fairs, markets, happenings and shows on the projection screen. In 2001, Nelson Mandela opened the Mandela Gardens. In his speech, Mandela thanked 'the people of Liverpool for their generosity'. Oops.
2
St. Anne's Cathedral

2) St. Anne's Cathedral

In 1786, Lady Lane Chapel was the first Catholic Church built in Leeds after the Reformation. In 1838 it was replaced by Saint Anne's Church. Saint Anne's was granted cathedral status in 1878. The new status did not last. In 1889 the Leeds Corporation bought and demolished the cathedral to widen Headrow Street into a boulevard.

The site of the first cathedral is now occupied by the Light entertainment and retail complex. Ironically, Saint Anne's Cathedral was "resurrected" on the site next door to Light complex. The new cathedral was designed by architect John Henry Eastwood in the Gothic Revival style. Construction commenced in 1901. The cathedral opened in 1904.

It was a tight fit on the smaller new site. The layout of the cathedral did not include wings. It has an "aisled" nave and chancel. The roof is continuous, the transepts are narrow. Pew rows are facing the altar. There are two rows of square stone pillars on each side of the aisled nave. The ceiling is a barrel vault.

Construction was in Weldon stone, using cream-colored Ketton stone for details. A tall gable on the west front is flanked by buttresses and Gothic turrets. There is also a sizable ornamental crucifix sculpture. Leaded bay windows on the north side create a mock Georgian appearance. The Vatican flag flies from the northwest tower.

In 2006 the skulls of two of English Catholic martyrs, Peter Snow and Ralph Grimston, were placed in the altar. Snow and Grimston were two catholics who were executed under Queen Elizabeth I during Reformation.
3
Leeds Town Hall

3) Leeds Town Hall

In the 19th century, John D. Heaton, Doctor and social activist, traveled to Europe. He was impressed with the civic architecture on the continent. "Whose town halls are the permanent glory of the inhabitants and the standing wonder and delight." He thought Leeds was "squalid and unbeautiful." It needed a "noble municipal palace."

The competitive nearby town of Bradford, proclaiming itself the "wool capital of the world", had just erected their grand Saint George's Hall. In 1852 the Leeds Town Council held a design competition for a town hall. The winner was Cuthbert Brodrick, a young architect who would go on to design several landmark buildings for the city.

The Town Hall is ensconced at the top of a flight of stairs on a hill made to raise the hall above all else. The main facade faces south. It has a severely recessed portico with ten Corinthian columns, and the 225 foot clock tower. The main entrance is an archway within the portico with three elaborate wrought iron doors.

The other sides also have columns but with two tiers of round-topped windows in between columns and pilasters. The great Victoria Hall has a 90 plus foot ceiling. It has marbled and gilded columns and cut glass chandeliers. One writer described it as "the inside of a wedding cake." In the vestibule is a statue of Queen Victoria.

The Hall was officially opened by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in September, 1858.
4
The Headrow

4) The Headrow

The Headrow is only about a half mile long but it is noted on maps as early as 1560. It lay on the northern edge of medieval Leeds. It was simply the "head" of town. Today the Headrow lies like a spine in the city center. East to west the street is Eastgate, Headrow and Westgate. The far end of Westgate is Park Lane.

The Headrow is probably the most important civic and commercial boulevard in central Leeds. It is home to Leeds Town Hall, Leeds Central Library, Leeds Art Gallery, the Henry Moore Institute and the Light entertainment and retail complex. Between Park Row and Briggate are flagship stores of some large international chains.

The Light complex, on the north side of the street, has a cinema, restaurants and a Radisson Hotel. Retail outlets include Direct Line House, Saint John's Shopping Centre and the Headrow Centre on Dortmund Square. The Broad Gate Building is partially given over to retailers T.K. Maxx, Argos, and Home Sense.

At the west end of Headrow is Victoria Gardens, home to the Speakers' Corner and the Municipal War Memorial. The Gardens are surrounded by Leeds Town Hall, Leeds City Art Gallery, the Henry Moore Institute and The Leeds Central Library. The Oxford Place Methodist Mission is on the west side. The Light complex is on the east.

Dortmund Square was created in 1980. It lies between Headrow House and Lewis' Department Store. Leeds has been twinned with Dortmund, Germany for more than ten years. The bronze statue of the Dortmund Drayman by Arthur Shulze-Engels presides over the square.
5
St John The Evangelist Redundant Church

5) St John The Evangelist Redundant Church

A redundant church, also referred to as a closed church, is a church no longer used for worship. Unless other uses can be found for them, these buildings are often left to ruin. In England a closed church may be cared for by the Churches Conservation Trust. Saint John the Evangelist has been in the Trust since 1977.

Saint John's was consecrated in 1634. It is the oldest church building in the center of Leeds. The building of the church was financed by John Harrison, a rich wool merchant. The church was renovated and restored successively in the 19th century by architects Richard Shaw, George Scott and Temple Moore. It became redundant in 1975.

The exterior is ashlar stone. The roof is of grey slate. The basic plan is for a nave and an aisle and porch, a chancel and a tower. The style is perpendicular. The tower is tiered and cross buttressed. It has clocks on three sides. The tower top has three bell openings. The porch has buttresses and a sundial over the arched doorway.

The internal arcade is held up by octagonal piers. The tops are decorated with acanthus leaves. The roof is ornate. It has tie beams, intricate corbels, gilded pendants and flowery panels. The style is Jacobean. There is a royal coat of arms, brass chandeliers and a 19th century memorial window honoring John Harrison.

Saint John's Church is a Grade I listed building.
6
Leeds Grand Theatre

6) Leeds Grand Theatre (must see)

The Grand Theatre is a theatre and opera house located at 48 New Briggate in Leeds. It has a seating capacity of 1,550. It is owned by Leeds Grand Theatre and Opera House Ltd. It is classified as a visiting productions type of theatre and it is the home of Opera North, founded by the Arts Council of England and Leeds City Council.

The exterior of the theatre is a blend of Romanesque and Scottish baronial. It was constructed in the 1870s. It was conceived in three parts; a theatre, shops and Assembly Rooms. The Assembly Rooms were meant as high class gathering places for both sexes. The overall interior appearance was a high Gothic Victorian style.

The Assembly Rooms were transformed several times and used for cinema, as small concert venues and recitals. Today the theatre is a major "receiving house." It is host to touring productions of plays, musicals, operas, ballets and concerts. The theatre is the home venue of Opera North, based in Leeds.
7
Briggate

7) Briggate

The name Briggate is thought to be derived from "brycg", old English for "bridge" and "gata", old Norse for "gate." In 1207, Maurice Paynell, Lord of the Manor of Leeds, granted a charter to his burghers (tenants) to create the first borough of Leeds, Briggate, a street over the river Aire. Briggate today is the main street of Leeds.

Land along the Briggate has been owned in the medieval manner, in long strips of land leading in either direction from the street. This arrangement proved convenient for the building of shopping arcades. The first such arcade was Thornton's Arcade in 1878. The 20th century brought many changes to Briggate, including more arcades.

Leeds is famous for the arcades of Briggate. The Grand Arcade is on New Briggate. It is really two parallel arcades with a cross passage. It has a clock by William Potts & Son with two knight figures that strike the hours. Thornton's Arcade also has a William Potts & Son clock featuring the characters of Richard I, Robin Hood, Friar Tuck and others.

Queen Victoria Street has been an arcade since 1990. The Central Arcade opened in 2012. Briggate is pedestrianized and thick with shops, cafes, and restaurants. Talented buskers abound. On weekends the street is filled with performers, artists and human statues.
8
City Square

8) City Square

City Square is a massive triangular paved area north of the railway station in Leeds. It is at the intersection of Park Row in the east and Wellington Street in the south. These two make contact with Infirmary Street, Boar Lane, Bishopsgate Street and Quebec Street. Only the General Post Office fronts the square directly.

In 1893 Leeds' Cloth Hall and Quebec House were demolished to create an open space to construct the new General Post Office with a public area in front. The project was completed in 1896. The Council opted for the name City Square since Leeds had just been elevated to city status. It was designed in the style of an Italian piazza.

Dominating the square is a bronze statue of Edward, the Black Prince, mounted on his trusty steed. Edward's connection with Leeds is not entirely clear, but he looks really fine. The statue is by sculptor Thomas Brock.

Four other men are memorialized in bronze: James Watt, engineer; John Harrison, 15th century philanthropist; Doctor Walter Hook, 19th century Vicar of Leeds, and; Joseph Priestly, chemist and theologian.

Dancing playfully around the Black Prince and the four famous men are eight nude nymphs. Four carry lamps in their right hands and flowers in their left hands and are called "Morn." Four others carry lamps in their left hands while their right hands are on their heads. They are called "Even." They have been moved many times but now they dance in a simple arc.
9
Holy Trinity Church

9) Holy Trinity Church

In Boar Lane in Leeds, there is an evangelical style Church of England with an outrageous steeple. This is the Holy Trinity Church of Leeds. It was built by 1727 but the steeple, that looks like a fully opened telescope standing on its face, was not installed until 1839. The church at first had two designers and no steeple.

The two designers are, William Halfpenny and William Etty. Halfpenny's design for the tower called for a square colonnade topped off with an obelisk tapering to a spire. The church was built according to Etty's design and model but he did not aspire to a spire. Some unknown person later installed a sort of wooden spire which blew down in 1839.

The wooden spire was replaced in 1839 with the tall stone spire of today by the architect Robert Dennis Chantrel. The steeple stands in three diminishing stages topped by a spire in three diminishing stages. In 2020 the building underwent major renovations and became part of the parish of Saint George's Church.

The interior is a plain rectangular vessel with Corinthian columns on the sides. Above the altar there is a carved, gilded statue of a pelican with her chicks. The legend of the pelican is that in hungry times she would tear her own flesh to feed the chicks. This fable resonates with the idea of Christ giving his life for humankind.
10
Leeds Corn Exchange

10) Leeds Corn Exchange

The Corn Exchange was designed by Cuthbert Brodrick, the architect from Hull, who also designed the Leeds Town hall, the Leeds City museum, the Headingley Congregational Church and many other buildings in Leeds. His inspiration for the circular, round-topped exchange was the Bourse de commerce of Paris by Francois-Joseph Belanger.

The exchange was completed in 1864. The building ceased to be an exchange in time. In the 1980s it was acquired by Specialty Shops plc. It was renovated and restored and converted to retail businesses.

The Exchange building houses about 30 independent retailers and food outlet shops. It is built on an oval plan with millstone grit and it has a grey slate dome with molded bands. There is a frieze, a dentilled cornice and a parapet with a clock. There are three arcade porches with Tuscan columns and two floors of arched windows.
11
Leeds Kirkgate Market

11) Leeds Kirkgate Market (must see)

Here is the big market to end all big markets. The Kirkgate Market on Vicar Lane and George Street is the largest covered market in all of Europe. It has about 170 traders selling a huge variety of goods and foods. There are exotic fruits and vegetables, a fish market and a meat sector, and bakeries. Flowers, clothing, and novelties can also be found here.

There is a Chinese supermarket, a Polish deli. Shawarmas, chapattis, crepes and real Yorkshire pudding can be had. There is a South Asian bazaar on Wednesdays with a range of South Asian foods, silk saris and Indian bracelets. The events space holds festivals, concerts and fashion shows. Some 800 stalls serve 100,000 customers a week.

The market building opened in 1904. There are several halls, all connected. The oldest is the 1875 hall, sandwiched in among the 1904 hall and the 1976 and 1981 halls. Butchers' Row, at the northern end, leads to the 1976 hall. Fish and game, at the southern end, leads to the 1981 hall.

The 1904 Hall is ornate. It has a glass roof and a balcony. It is a cast-iron structure decorated in a Flemish Art Nouveau style. The 1904 hall is the only part of the market to escape the ravages of the disastrous 1975 fire.

The 1976 Hall is a large open-plan hall with a latticed roof. The Outdoor Market is accessed from the 1976 and 1981 halls. There are three blocks of stalls including greengrocers, computers, clothing and electrical goods.

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