Chester's Black-and-white Architecture Tour (Self Guided), Chester

2–18 Saint Werburgh Street, on the east of Saint Werburgh Street and north of Eastgate Street in Chester, is a Grade II* listed terrace. Designed by architect John Douglas in the 1890s, it was built after Chester City Council widened the street, replacing old shops with a unified design leading to Chester Cathedral. It now houses a bank, shops, and offices.

Initially, the council planned to sell the land in parcels, but John Douglas purchased the entire stretch, envisioning a cohesive architectural statement. Though Douglas originally planned a Gothic design in stone and brick diapering, he adapted his vision under the influence of the Duke of Westminster, incorporating black-and-white half-timbering into the upper stories, a hallmark of Chester’s architectural character.

The first completed building, located at the corner of Eastgate Street, became the premises of the Bank of Liverpool. Other units were subsequently developed into shops, contributing to the vibrant commercial life of the area. A plaque commemorating John Douglas, placed 12 years after his death, honors his contribution to the city's architectural heritage.

The terrace spans three stories with attics, featuring green Westmorland slate roofs. The bank's ground floor is constructed from yellow sandstone resting on a granite plinth, while modern shopfronts now occupy portions of the street-level façade. The upper stories are an uninterrupted expanse of richly adorned half-timbering, with intricate carvings depicting Norman earls, and saints, including Saint Werburgh, and Queen Victoria. Decorative brick chimney stacks rise above the roofline, adding to the terrace's ornate charm.

This striking architectural composition not only enhances Chester’s historic cityscape but also stands as a testament to John Douglas’ innovative approach to urban design.

The building at 27–31 Northgate Street in Chester is a captivating mix of architectural styles and purposes, housing shops, offices, and a public house. Its dual-facing structure—one side overlooking Northgate Street, the other gazing out onto Town Hall Square—adds to its urban prominence.

The public house, likely originating in the early 19th century, anchors the building's historical roots. The rest of the structure was given a striking new frontage in 1902, courtesy of renowned architect John Douglas. The building rises to three stories, complemented by a small attic and cellars, offering a layered complexity characteristic of Chester’s historic streetscape.

The ground level features a charming three-bay arcade, its columns adorned with carved capitals. Above the capitals, niches hold intricately carved figures, adding a touch of Elizabethan theatricality. Musicians in period costumes grace the niches facing the street, while corner figures hold scrolls, visually linking the two facades.

The middle story is notable for its jettied design, a hallmark of traditional timber-framed buildings. Highlights include a two-light mullioned and transomed casement window at number 29 and a more elaborate four-light oriel window at number 31. A painted effigy of Edward VII, rendered in half-size, occupies a corner position, lending regal charm to the building’s ensemble.

The upper level is a testament to architectural intricacy. Number 27 features a simple two-light casement window. Number 28, however, boasts a jettied, gabled attic with a five-light casement window topped by a carved finial. Number 31 adds its flourish with a four-light casement window, a gabled attic with a shaped bargeboard, and another finely detailed finial. Rising above the gable, a flèche crowned with a gilt weather vane completes the decorative skyline.

27–31 Northgate Street exemplifies the fusion of historical elements and architectural innovation, showcasing the skill of John Douglas in marrying 19th-century practicality with the ornamentation of earlier periods. The building remains a cherished piece of Chester's urban fabric, its rich details inviting admiration from both locals and visitors.

11–13 Northgate Street stands as a striking example of Chester's architectural charm, blending modern functionality with historic craftsmanship. This Grade II-listed structure is primarily celebrated for its magnificent bow windows on the upper floor, a hallmark of the building's design by the renowned local architect John Douglas. Built in 1900 for J. F. Denson and Sons, the building serves as a vivid representation of the city's timber-framed heritage.

The ground floor features a modern shop front recessed behind a charming arcade supported by Doric columns and rusticated piers. Above this contemporary addition, the upper storey exudes historical elegance. Decorated panels sit beneath two seven-light bowed oriel windows, each accompanied by additional side windows, creating a seamless row of glazing. The jettied gable adds to the visual appeal, showcasing two rows of quatrefoil panels and a carved bargeboard, embodying the traditional craftsmanship of Chester's timber-framed buildings.

Internally, the building reveals another layer of history, with its medieval sandstone undercrofts, offering a glimpse into the city's storied past. The use of black and white timber framing contrasts sharply with the brick construction, making the structure a notable feature of Northgate Street.

This building forms part of a terrace that includes shops, offices, and a public house, all characterized by a unique blend of architectural styles. Together, they represent Chester’s rich history, where medieval roots meet Victorian ingenuity, creating a vibrant urban streetscape.

Located on the west side of Northgate Street in Chester, 5–9 Northgate Street forms part of the historic terrace known as Shoemakers' Row or Sadler's Row, a series of Grade II* and II listed buildings characterized by their timber-framed upper stories and set-back ground floors with covered walkways. Designed by prominent local architect John Douglas, who also owned the site, the building showcases the distinctive architectural flair typical of Chester's Rows.

Constructed in 1900, the building has two stories and six bays. Its ground floor features modern shopfronts recessed behind an arcade, elevated by two steps from the street. A carved bressumer, inscribed with the construction date, adorns the transition to the upper story. The first floor is defined by three pairs of canted five-light oriel windows, separated by intricately carved figures. The façade culminates in three gables, each decorated with carved bargeboards and finials, further emphasizing the craftsmanship.

In 1914, number 9 was reconstructed following a fire, preserving the building's architectural integrity. Notably, the terrace also includes a pair of brick houses, originally residences and later converted into offices. These have three stories, slate roofs, and two bays each. Their front elevations feature round-headed doorways with fanlights, fluted pillars, and decorative architraves, complemented by sash windows with wedge lintels. A modillion cornice crowns the structure.

The rich detailing and layered history of 5–9 Northgate Street exemplify Chester’s blend of functionality and heritage, making it a standout feature of one of the city’s most celebrated streets.

1 Bridge Street is a striking example of Chester’s iconic black-and-white revival architecture. Located at the bustling junction of Bridge Street and Eastgate Street at Chester Cross, the building is an integral part of the city’s historical and architectural charm. A Grade II* listed structure, it also incorporates part of the famous Chester Rows, adding to its historic significance.

Designed by Thomas Lockwood and completed in 1888 for the 1st Duke of Westminster, the building reflects Lockwood's most flamboyant style. It is considered by many, including the National Heritage List for England, to be his most admired work in Chester. By 1889, ownership had passed to Chester City Council, and today, the building serves as a hub for retail activity.

The four-story structure features an undercroft below street level, an attic, and impressive architectural detailing. A prominent octagonal turret at the corner marks the entrance, reached by a flight of seven steps leading to the Rows level. Above the steps, a canted, mullioned, and transomed oriel window draws attention, crowned by three pargetted panels and a four-light canted casement window beneath a curved roof topped with a weather vane.

The building boasts decorative panels, balustrades, and shopfronts that align seamlessly with the Rows’ unique layout. On Bridge Street, the third-story façade showcases intricate panels and a three-light window, while a gabled dormer adds to the visual complexity. Along Eastgate Street, a six-light window dominates the third story, flanked by panels that include the Grosvenor family arms. Above this, a dormer enhances the skyline, completing the building’s ornate and historic character.

Historian Simon Ward aptly described 1 Bridge Street as an “iconic” structure, a timeless representation of Chester’s architectural heritage. Its picturesque detailing and prominent location continue to make it a cherished landmark in the heart of the city.

Saint Ursula's, located on Watergate Street in Chester is a historic building that embodies the rich architectural heritage of the city. This Grade I listed structure is noted for its exceptional undercroft, which dates back to the late 12th century, making it one of the oldest dated features within the Chester Rows.

The building spans four stories, with sandstone forming its street and Row-level façades and timber framing the upper levels. This combination harmonizes with Chester’s iconic black-and-white architectural style. The undercroft, featuring 5½ bays, is particularly significant, as its walls were constructed between 1180 and 1280, marking it as a rare example of medieval craftsmanship.

Over the centuries, Saint Ursula's underwent several transformations. Alterations were made in the 16th or 17th century, and the structure above the Row level was largely rebuilt in the late 19th century. Further modifications followed in the 20th century, ensuring its preservation and adaptation to modern use. Today, the undercroft serves as a storeroom for a neighboring toy shop, adding a touch of practicality to its historical charm.

Interestingly, the building’s name remains a mystery. While there were 16th-century almshouses in Chester dedicated to Saint Ursula, they were located elsewhere. The origin of the name engraved on the stone shop front is unclear, yet it adds an enigmatic allure to this remarkable structure.

Situated on the south side of Watergate Street, opposite Crook Street, Saint Ursula's is easy to locate and offers a fascinating glimpse into Chester's medieval past. Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply exploring the city, this unique building is a must-see gem that adds character to the bustling thoroughfare of Watergate Street.

Bishop Lloyd's Palace, also known as Bishop Lloyd's House, is an iconic timber-framed building located on Watergate Street in Chester. This Grade I listed structure is celebrated for its architectural splendor, with historian Nikolaus Pevsner deeming it "perhaps the best" house in Chester. Its fascinating history and intricate design make it a must-visit landmark.

The building stands on two medieval sandstone undercrofts with timber framing above, showcasing Chester’s unique architectural heritage. Its first floor incorporates a section of the Chester Rows, a distinctive feature of the city. Originally two separate townhouses, the structure was rebuilt in the 17th century, unifying the buildings and introducing a more modern design.

The house is named after George Lloyd, Bishop of Chester from 1605 to 1615. It has connections to the Yale family, notable for their association with Yale University. By the 18th century, one side of the house bore the name "Edgar's Academy." However, neglect in the 19th century left the property in disrepair until a major restoration in the 1890s by architect Thomas Lockwood, who revitalized its façade and structural elements.

Bishop Lloyd's Palace consists of two gabled houses with three stories and attic spaces. A stone staircase with a wrought-iron railing leads to the row level, featuring a shopfront with an oak handrail. The façade is adorned with carved brackets of figures, square panels, mullioned windows, and ornate gables.

Inside, a Chinese Chippendale staircase connects the floors. One upper room features a grand 17th-century plaster ceiling and a large fireplace from the Bishop's Palace. The smaller room has Tudor rose motifs, a sea monster frieze, and a unique Cupid-on-lion fireplace overmantel.

Today, the building is home to shops at street and row levels, while the upper floors house Chester Civic Trust’s headquarters. Visitors can explore the historic rooms, which are open free of charge at designated times, and hire elegant meeting spaces for events. Bishop Lloyd's Palace remains a testament to Chester’s rich history and architectural excellence, drawing both tourists and locals to admire its timeless beauty.

Cowper House, located on Bridge Street in Chester, is a remarkable example of historic English architecture, blending medieval and post-medieval styles. This former townhouse is a Grade I listed building, recognized for its historical significance and architectural beauty. It incorporates a section of the iconic Chester Rows, unique medieval walkways characteristic of the city.

The house was constructed in 1664, following the devastation of the English Civil War, on top of undercrofts dating back to 1350–1375 or possibly earlier. These undercrofts reflect the medieval roots of the site, with the front undercroft thought to predate the rear one. Thomas Cowper, the house's namesake, was the mayor of Chester in 1641–42 and a Royalist during the Civil War. His initials, "•T•C•1664," are carved into the bressummer of the building, highlighting his role in its creation.

The building combines sandstone, brick, timber framing, and plaster panels, topped by a grey slate roof. It has four stories with a street-facing gable. The ground floor features a modern shop and stone steps to the Row level, which includes another shop front, a walkway, and a balustrade. The richly decorated upper stories showcase timber-framed panels, carved fascias, a 14-light window on the third story supported by corbels, and a jettied top story with intricate carvings, a ten-light window, and decorative bargeboard with a finial.

Beneath the house, undercrofts hint at its medieval roots. The front undercroft, 16 meters long, descends two steps from the street, while six more steps lead to the 13-meter-long rib-vaulted rear undercroft with six bays and a three-light window. A stone staircase in the fifth bay enhances its historic appeal. Upstairs, a sandstone fireplace inscribed "TC 1661" with a blank shield adds another touch of history.

Cowper House exemplifies the evolution of Chester's architectural heritage, combining medieval craftsmanship with 17th-century innovation, and remains a treasured landmark in the city.

Saint Michael's Buildings are a striking architectural feature on the east side of Bridge Street in Chester. This Grade II* listed structure, recorded in the National Heritage List for England, was completed in 1910 for the 2nd Duke of Westminster and designed by W.T. Lockwood. The building incorporates a section of Chester Rows, with shops at street level, along the Rows, and in an arcade that links to the Grosvenor Shopping Centre.

The original design featured a Bridge Street façade clad in cream and gold ceramic tiles (faience) with elaborate Baroque decoration. However, this bold design drew widespread public criticism for clashing with Chester’s Black-and-White Revival aesthetic. In response to a petition led by Chester City Council and the Bishop of Chester, the Duke replaced the façade with timber framing, aligning it with the city's historic architectural character.

The façade combines timber framing with plaster panels, green Westmorland slate roofing, and elements of brick and faience decoration. It features an E-plan layout, five stories, and five gables, with three projecting bays. Inside, the arcade is adorned with faience finishes, and modern shopfronts line its 20-unit retail space. The building also underwent a significant alteration in 2000, when the steps at the Bridge Street entrance were replaced for accessibility.

Structurally, the building likely incorporates a steel frame, supporting its blend of historical and modern architectural elements. With its rich history and adaptive design, Saint Michael's Buildings serve as a testament to Chester's dedication to preserving its unique urban heritage while accommodating modern commercial needs.

The Falcon, a historic public house located on the west side of Lower Bridge Street at its junction with Grosvenor Road in Chester, holds a distinguished place as a Grade I listed building in the National Heritage List for England. The Falcon boasts a rich and complex history dating back to its origins as a house around 1200, with its structure evolving significantly over centuries.

Originally, the building incorporated part of Chester Rows—an iconic architectural feature of the city—but in the 17th century, it became the first property to enclose its section of the row. This precedent was set when Sir Richard Grosvenor, who purchased the house in 1602, petitioned successfully in 1643 to expand his home. Grosvenor extensively altered the building, transforming it into his townhouse during a period marked by the upheaval of the English Civil War, when his family sought refuge from Eaton Hall, their country estate.

The Falcon is a prime example of Chester’s timber-framed architecture. Its east face on Lower Bridge Street features two stories on a sandstone plinth, with two prominent gables, close timber studding, and decorative windows, including an eleven-light leaded window and a 34-light continuous window. The gables are enhanced with herringbone struts, bargeboards, and finials.

The north face, overlooking Grosvenor Road, has two sections: the older eastern part mirrors the east façade, while the western section, likely added in 1626 by Sir Richard Grosvenor, features timber framing, a slate roof, a lateral chimney, and windows of varying sizes.

The building’s medieval undercroft, now serving as a beer cellar, comprises a divided chamber with octagonal stone piers and a substantial oak beam running east-west. The enclosed portion of the row now forms a room along the east side, with additional rooms extending into the building’s rear and west wing.

Today, The Falcon stands as a testament to Chester’s architectural and historical legacy, preserving centuries of craftsmanship, innovation, and social evolution.

The Bear and Billet, a historic public house on Lower Bridge Street in Chester, is a quintessential example of 17th-century timber-framed architecture. Recognized as a Grade I listed building, it holds the distinction of being one of the finest and last remaining timber-framed townhouses in England, celebrated for its exceptional craftsmanship and historical significance.

Constructed in 1664, the building originally served as the town residence for the Earls of Shrewsbury, who oversaw the nearby Bridgegate. While its primary function was residential, it likely doubled as a grain warehouse, evidenced by the double doors and a hoist bracket on its street-facing gable. By the 18th century, the property transitioned into an inn, retaining connections to the Shrewsbury family until 1867. Its name, Bear and Billet, references the heraldic emblem of the Earls, depicting a bear tethered to a billet (or stake).

The building’s design is a striking showcase of timber framing with plaster panels, rising from its cellars to include three stories and an attic. The jettied stories create a layered façade, adding depth and visual intrigue. The roof, clad in purple slates, runs at a right angle to the street, crowned by a carved bargeboard and a decorative finial at the gable’s apex.

The ground floor has two doors (one central, one to the south) framed by three-light windows. The first floor showcases 16 plaster panels and a 32-light mullioned and transomed window with leaded lights. The second floor includes 12 arched timber panels and a wide window like the one below, topped by 12 square decorative panels. The attic features a double timber door with panels and two light-led windows, while the gable’s apex displays decorative herringbone timber framing.

Today, the Bear and Billet stands as a cherished piece of Chester’s architectural and cultural heritage. Its legacy as both a residence and an inn, combined with its impeccable timber-framed design, makes it a landmark worth admiring for history enthusiasts and casual visitors alike.