A Foodie’s Guide to Tallinn, Estonia, Tallinn, Estonia

I didn’t have many expectations of Tallinn – capital of Estonia, the northernmost Baltic country on the border with Russia. And yet this quiet, compact, clean and efficient city enchanted me. Its walled, cobbled Old Town is much like many others throughout Europe, but the relative lack of tourists make it far more enjoyable to explore. The Kalamaja neighbourhood to the north is a combination of traditional wooden workers’ homes, hipster street art and modern docklands. While surrounding the centre and to the east in Kadriorg Park, there’s so much green that I really wished I’d been able to bring my dog with me – she’d have loved it as much as I did.

The Estonians are no strangers to spice and citrus, smoke and salt. Big game, like elk and mousse, feature on lots of menus, as do smoked fish and salted anchovies.

The food was also unexpected: I had great recommendations from a friend who used to live there, but still I hadn’t anticipated how big the flavours would be. The Estonians are no strangers to spice and citrus, smoke and salt. Big game, like elk and mousse, feature on lots of menus, as do smoked fish and salted anchovies. Bread is dark and malty with rye, and served with salted butter. Vegetables are fresh and in season, which during our visit meant plenty of beetroot and late-summer leafy greens. The craft beer scene also seems to be hopping (pun very much intended). In short, Tallinn has much to recommend it. Here are just a few of my favourite spots… ...... (follow the instructions below for accessing the rest of this article).