‘Don’t Forget 93’ Stones, Mostar

The view of the Old Bridge at sunset, arching over the emerald waters of the Neretva River, sluicing through the center of medieval Mostar, is an enchanting sight. The eagle-eye view changes as one zoom in closer to the cobblestone streets and the bustling market below. One begins to see the hideous scars of the recent past.

Homes, churches, and mosques are chewed up from gunfire. Some buildings are gutted and in ruins. Bombs and fires have taken a heavy toll. For nine months, the city of Mostar was under siege. Croats on the west side of the river and Bosniaks on the east side tore at each other. Even now, when at peace, they rarely interact.

There are glimmers of hope peeping out of the ravaged cityscape. Here and there are stones inscribed with the same message: "Don't Forget '93". The stones are reminders not to repeat the past. The war ended 30 years ago. Tourists are coming back. Church bells toll and muezzins call to prayer. Where there is hope, there is a future.