Cabaret Au Lapin Agile (Agile Rabbit Cabaret), Paris

This strange-looking but lovely little house on the northern slope of Montmartre has been in place for over one and a half centuries. Its pub-like setting exudes genuine French cabaret vibes, though, unlike regular cabarets, it does not feature topless dancers. Instead, patrons here are treated to songs, poetry, and humor (all in French, though).

The Agile Rabbit Cabaret has a storied past stretching back to around 1860 when it was known as "Where the Thieves Meet". Evolving in name and reputation, the venue was re-titled “The Cabaret of Assassins” after an incident involving gangsters killing the owner's son and its decoration with portraits of famous murderers. The cabaret’s current name is derived from a pun on a painting by French caricaturist Andre Gill depicting a rabbit leaping from a saucepan, known originally as "Gill's Rabbit" and eventually morphing into "Agile Rabbit". A replica of that painting now adorns the premises. Sadly, the original was stolen in 1893.

Purchased in the early 20th century by cabaret singer and nightclub owner Aristide Bruant, the Agile Rabbit was preserved from demolition and became a regular haunt for artists and writers, such as Picasso, Modigliani, Utrillo, and Apollinaire, who congregated here to debate the essence of art. Situated near the Sacred Heart Basilica, the epicenter of Paris's artistic movement at the time, this cabaret also attracted a diverse crowd including local eccentrics, students, and members of the bourgeoisie.

In 1905, Picasso paid for a meal here with one of his paintings, following which he quickly exited and painted another one, which he named "At Agile Rabbit". In the 1980s, this painting sold for millions of pounds at an auction, largely elevating the cabaret's global recognition. Today, it is on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Other Montmartre artists like Roman Greco and Maurice Utrillo have also depicted Agile Rabbit in their works.

The cabaret's legacy further extended into modern pop culture when American comedian Steve Martin wrote the play “Picasso at the Agile Rabbit” in 1993, which fictionalizes a meeting between Pablo Picasso and Albert Einstein here.

Today, the Agile Rabbit remains largely unchanged, continuing its legacy as an informal cabaret venue that showcases poets and singers performing traditional French songs, some dating back to the 15th century. Sometimes, shows last as long as four hours, creating an incredibly warm atmosphere and making the time spent here well worth remembering.

Tip:
This place is usually rather busy, so advance reservations are highly recommended.